On that day in 2020, when designers Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto opened the email whose sender had an address ending in “gucci.com”, they believed ” a joke “. “There was a link we didn’t want to click on, thinking it might lead to a virus”, says the couple. Why, indeed, in the midst of a pandemic, would the Gucci teams want to join them? The Briton and the Italian, who met in 2010 “in a club toilet in East London”have been signing in London, since 2018, under the JordanLuca label, sharp, dark and sexy collections, but which still remain very confidential.
No recipient error, however. Gucci invites them to produce a video. The leading brand of the luxury group Kering gives them carte blanche to stage their clothes, in The Palace of Kingsa short film where vampires dance, as if rising from acids. A film released in November 2020 during the Gucci Fest, an online festival where other emerging talents benefit from a similar platform, such as the Frenchman Charles de Vilmorin or the Chinese Rui Zhou. “It was daring and selfless of them to provide us with such support”, are grateful to Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto, 30. Especially since, in the wake, the thirty-somethings joined Gucci Vault, a site on which Gucci sells exclusive or vintage clothes, and a slew of pieces signed by young shoots that the label pampers.
Altruistic, fashion? Since the early 2000s, the industry has, on the contrary, established itself as one of the fiercest. Profitability, competition, globalization, obsession with novelty: the sector marvelously embraces the precepts of capitalism. However, from now on, powerful actors willingly start sponsoring the newcomers, as if a new era had sounded. LVMH opened the way in 2014 by launching its prize for young designers. Gucci followed in 2020 and others are getting on board now, like Dolce & Gabbana which in February helped Korean designer Sohee Park, 26, for her Miss Sohee label. The heavyweight provided him with recovered fabrics, financed his parade, supported his communication. In short, an alliance between godparents and goddaughter – others “will follow in the near future”do we at Dolce & Gabbana.
“It is harder than ever to succeed in the creative industries. If I can pass on what I have learned over the years, I do so with joy”, says Paul Smith. The most chic of British designers has just launched & PaulSmith, a mentoring program for beginners in all disciplines, accompanied by a check (the amount of which he does not specify).
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